Memoir of a Trek: Toze to Rupshu Valley.

A long desire to see rugged mountains and barren lands of Ladakh became true in the year 2014. I with my friend (Pradip Mahapatra)whom I also admire as a mountain lover planned to do a trek in little different way. Our plan was to do the trek on our own i.e without any guide or porter. Armed with Sunto GPS watch and thorough study of the route done in Google Earth we were confident enough to give it a try. Bags were packed and measured and again packed because we could not afford to carry something which was really not essential. A two man tent, ration to sustain two of us for ten days and few clothes, stove, utensils already made our rucksacks almost 15kgs. We are charged up enough to do the trek, but everything does not happen by the way you desire. When our shared vehicle dropped us at the starting point 5kms after Sarchu by a gushing stream my friend was already suffering from food poisoning. He was vomiting and the load does not helped us either. We started our trek and little after one and a half kilometer we decided to camp by a narrow stream. Next day he summed up all his strength and started but after few kilometers he gave up and it was quite natural. I could have not come this far in this condition. So we decided to turn back, and went to Leh. There, after getting some rest we went for Markha Valley and it was a beautiful trek. This tour boosted up our confidence that it can be done i.e without help of guide and again planning started for next year trek and this time also a new route but it was decided to take mules to carry the load.

2015 our team grew to five. Youngest member of the team aged 25 and oldest 61. Rupa De Roy who is only female member is like my didi (elder sister) than friend. Ratan Da(Da is used after name for someone who is elder) the eldest person can be referred as encyclopedia of Himalaya. Niladri the youngest one completed the basic course of mountaineering and will be joining soon for the advance course. The rest are two of us i.e Pradip Da and me. This time our plan is to follow Toze river upstream and cross a unnamed pass to Rupshu Valley and then again cross another pass beside Parang La and enter Spiti Valley. 

This time we decided to go in August because by that time rainy season(which now brings quite heavy rainfall in this region) will subside and there will be less water in the streams. Pradip Da arranged for a mule man with his four mules through his friend based in Manali. 

After reaching Manali we purchased some rations and packed it finally, next day we have to start early for Pang our starting point.

Pang(15,100ft) is almost 300kms from Manali and we reached there at 2pm after driving almost 6 hours. In the evening Santosh came with his four mules to join us. This four beast of burden will carry almost all our loads for the days to come.

Day 1.  Just before Pang while coming from Manali a stream comes from right hand side which is Toze river. Our route was by the side of this river and as per our planning we have to walk around twelve kilometers today. We started at eight after having breakfast at the tent on the road side in which we stayed for the night. Initially we crossed a bridge and climbed a hump on our left. From here we could see the stream down below like glittering string. We have to go down to the stream to follow it because there is no way we can follow it from above.

Looking for the route..

Traversing through a scree like ground we came down by the side of the stream. Our guide is Sunto in which we had already fed the route and it is guiding us by the help of GPS. We had to open our shoes few times and walk through bone chilling water since there was no other way. After trekking almost five hours Sunto showed that we had only covered eight kilometers. At this point we came in front of a confluence, the main stream is coming from our left hand side and a narrow trickle of water is coming straight. We found a grass patch here with considerable open ground and decided to camp here as mules need grass for the day. Here we got little bit confused, which way to take next day? GPS was showing left path but we could already figure out that it was entering a gorge quite narrow.

Measuring the depth..

Calmness of the surrounding and evening light made our day. Though it became quite cold at night we put our lights of not earlier than 9.30pm and credit goes to Ratan Da for keeping us awake with his never ending stories of trekking.
Day 2. After having our breakfast and packing lunch we hit the path around 8.30am. After initial round of discussion it was decided to go by the main river. Within half an hour of walking we came in front of a narrow opening from which the river is gushing out. Either we have to cross the river diagonally or climb a scree zone with a gradient of almost 65 degree. We could have climbed it but on that loose ground mules could not go. So, Pradip Da with a safety rope went into the water waist deep to assess the situation. But after trying hard he gave up the hope of crossing it. Returned back to our starting point we crossed the stream and headed straight. We decided to go parallel to the Toze river. A high ridge separated us from the main stream. Walking by the narrow stream on boulder strewn path the valley started to open up in front of us.  Different colours and shapes of mountain greeted us in to the unknown. Some shepherds surely visit this places for feeding their sheep herd but we could not find any thing which could make us to believe that trekkers came here previously. Covering almost ten kilometers we camped on the shoulder of the ridge about 50 meters above the stream. From here it looked feasible to cross the ridge and join the Toze river next day.

Looking back to our Day 2 camp.

  Day 3. It took us almost one and half hour to come to the top of the ridge as the gradient was really high. One by one we all reached the top huffing and puffing and now what we saw in front of us cannot be described by me. As far as we can see there was a open ground vast as if it can hold not less than hundred Boeing.

Ridge top.

Part of the open ground

We followed that white tip of the mountain as GPS shows Toze can be close to it. An open ground, so high, with little undulation was soothing to walk on. Everybody got separated and walked alone because I think at that time everybody dived into there own world of thought and we walked tirelessly. Cloudy day and gushing wind made it lot easier. At mid day we were on the edge of the ground and down below we could see a narrow stream, it was decided to go down by the stream as the weather was closing in. When we reached the stream, snowflakes started to fall, it could not stop us we climbed the bank other side and went on. From far we could see some formations which looked like some stupas. Lunch was decided to be taken there, but when we get near we were surprised to see natural rock formation more like a broken termite mound. We had our lunch here and little rest again rejuvenated us. Santosh our mule man could not be seen, we gave him the idea of the route and he was following his own instinct. From lunch point it took an hour to come to another gorge with a stream within. It looked like Toze. Standing here when we look to our left we could clearly see the deep gorge formation from where we turned on day 2 morning. And down below Santosh had set up his shelter for the night. Coming down was tricky as there was no proper path. Crossing the stream we reached our camp site, we could have reached here on second day if we could crossed the stream there. Our GPS was again showing that we were on the right track.

Our camp site across the stream.

Evening light from our camp

We camped here by the side of the river. Before pitching our tents we had to clear the ground of thorny bushes. As soon as the sun goes below horizon it becomes quite cold.

Day 4. We were now on the right path. After packing everything on the mules we three used to start last. Ratan Da and Rupa Di were first to start everyday and usually we used to catch them within half an hour.We followed the river upstream and here at some places the river bed was more than a kilometer wide. As there was no cover and sun blazing at its full bright sometimes it felt quite hot. Sometime it seemed that we were walking on a wide highway, high ridges on both sides wide river bed in-between six of us with four creatures looked like ants.

The river bed.

Crossing the river uncountable times which we enjoyed, except the part of removing shoes and again putting them. The ridge left hand side of us had formed bizarre shapes of different sizes. This formations was made by wind blowing at high speed through this valley.

Rock formations.

After almost four hours walk now the valley again narrows and here at some point we had to leave the river and enter a gully on our left which will take us to the pass which we intended to cross. I cannot give the exact timings of when we started or when we took lunch or when we turned from our way because throughout our trek we were so mesmerized by the vastness that looking at the watch or keeping the time in mind seemed unimportant. So.. we missed the gully from which we should have entered. When we felt from our intuition we had already covered almost two kilometers. Here the valley was considerably narrow and water was above knee deep. Finding a grass stretch on left bank we decided to set our camp. Santosh enthusiastically climbed the opposite ridge to see if he could get any idea of the route. Coming back he said that it can be done next day and it was decided that he will cut the ridge at a low point with his mule and we will enter the gully which we had missed two kilometers back. An evening drizzle made the night even colder.

Day 5. Today from the beginning we decided not to put on our shoes as we had to cross the stream more than once and most of the way was through the stream. Crossing bone chilling water in the morning was challenging. When we reached the entry point of the gully and found a high ground to sit on and put on our shoes our feet was numb. Taking our time here we entered the gully not more than ten feet wide. About half a kilometer later may be little less we were again on a wide open place. Here a ridge was standing right in middle of our path.

Which way to take??

Our GPS showed us to take the left one but we saw Santosh with his mules going over the ridge on our right and all our whistling and waving to attract him went in vein as wind was blowing so high that we could not hear each other standing few feet apart. Left path was taken as a depression far away could be the pass. At certain point we had to sit under a rock shelter to get some shade from heat. This place has no water and not a single blade of grass. We don't know how far we have to walk to get water so we drank little water at a time. Pradip Da went to see the path ahead and suddenly I spotted him quite far away waving at us and asking us to move toward him. We started and here the way gradually get steeper. A steep way was difficult to cover in that altitude. It was more like a open ground than a pass which we generally see in other parts of the mountains. Since we crossed from one valley to other we can call it a pass. The altitude of the place is 5112m (16770ft). We made a cairn by gathering some stones as there was none which proves that we may be the first on this place as a trekker.

Other side of the pass gradually goes down and we found a little stream with patches of green grasses on both sides of it trickling down.

Our camp after the pass..

It was a beautiful place to camp and we found that Santosh had already set up his night shelter there. Sunset was a delight to watch from here. Thankfully wind subsides everyday after getting dark. The temperature at night was below freezing point.We ate finger licking dinner of bhat (steamed rice), dal (lentils) and posto (poppy seeds cooked with potato and onion) and also a desert payesh (rice cooked in milk).

Day 6. Descent from the path was very gradual laden with small rocks. As usually Santosh was last to start and we gave him the idea of the route. Once he said that he will take a shortcut and relying on his knowledge we started on our trek. Everybody was happy to cross an unknown pass. After crossing about two kilometers the way bifurcates into two. According to our GPS the right hand one was our way. There was a straight way which in Google earth we have seen that leads to the Phirsephu gorge but it had a pass in between which is quite high and descending from it could be quite tough.

Top view sketch.

So we took the right hand path and it lead us to a vast open field with little undulations. On far right we could see a range which divides this valley from Spiti Valley. Here we sighted first kiang (wild ass) in the open.

The vast landscape.

Kiang

Though they stay in groups but we saw some solitary animals, and sometimes a mother and her calf. I can remember that we had stopped very little and we were not walking slow still at noon we were only half way. Here we was discussing which way will Santosh take as we had seen him last at the camp site. In such an open ground it was easier to spot him but we could not see him anywhere. After lunch we again started and at about three we reached the point where we had to turn left. A stream was there and walking on wet grounds we saw some hoof marks which we thought of our mules. Here the valley was not very wide and we all had a feeling either we or Santosh had lost way. Our GPS was showing that we were not wrong. In this region night falls very late and it was decided to walk as long as we could find a suitable shelter. By that time we had lost our hope of finding Santosh. When evening was making way for night and not getting any shelter we decided to enter a gully in the ridge hoping that it would block the winds blowing through the valley. Everybody was carrying a small sack with camera, water bottle and windcheater in it except me as I was carrying a rucksack of Paradip Da who denied to put it on mule back as it is of Deuter and costly one, and I was more than happy to carry it. In that sack there was a jacket, wind cheater, few choclates, amla murabba one packet, three rain coats and a survival blanket, a plastic sheet and some things which were not of use at that moment. Everybody carried some drift wood and kiang dung for fire and made a temporary wall of rocks to guard the wind coming coming down. When night fall Pradip Da and I went again to river bed to give some light signal hoping it might catch attention of Santosh. Nobody ate anything after lunch except some raisins and chocolates taken in pocket at the last moment of leaving the camp. It was my dream to spend a night in open and I told this  to others at our pass camp, and the chance came really. Putting all our clothes we had, we slept closely to keep warm covering the blanket over. I fall asleep as soon as I laid down on the ground but others remained awake of cold and at about midnight they all got up and decided to lit the fire. Now a smoker came to rescue as except me nobody smokes and had no match box. Lighting up fire they sat rest of the night beside it and shivered all night. I got a chance to cover myself with the blanket fully and slept through out the night.

Day 7. Next day we started before sunrise and reached Manechan the place from where Phirsephu gorge starts. Situation was always under our control and everybody hold their nerve. To tell the truth, may be hard to believe that I enjoyed the situation and sure everybody did. We nibbled a little of what we had and started again. Scorching sun made it difficult to walk. On a far high ground we noticed a rebo (ship shelter) and hurried there only to find it empty. Suddenly from here few mules come into sight and we were delighted that we could get some help. Two foreigners were coming with three local people and five or six mules. They were doing the Tso moriri- Pang trek. We asked for some dry foods from them and to our surprise they denied to help saying that they had very limited ration. During noon the heat became unbearable and we sat beside Phirsephu and took rest. We decided to walk after sunset as there was moon light and with the help of our head torch we could easily do that. Again started at around five and soon it got dark in narrow gorge. Rocks on both sides are of different colour and moonlight made it beautiful. At around nine we found a small rock shelter not suitable for five of us, still we decided to stay rest of the night there. It was used by some sheep herder may be. It got very cold at night and we all shivered while trying to sleep.

Day 8. Started before dawn we know that if we walk today all day long we could reach Korzok a village by the side of Tso Moriri. Within an hour we reached kiang dam a marshy land. By getting the first view of Tso moriri we all get charged and started walking enthusiastically as if Korzok nearby. But we walked and walked by the side of the lake.

Trek along Tso moriri

Not a single living being we saw only a small bird. We slowed down considerably as scorching sun above made it difficult to walk and our tired body got more tired. Water of Tso-Moriri is undrinkable and whatever water we had fetched from Phirse phu got exhausted by noon. Still we had to go half way. Pradip Da decided to move fast to reach korzok and get some help.

Small bird.

Our original trek plan was to stay at kiang dam and then follow the Parang La route to cross another pass beside Parang La. Without Santosh and his mules we had no other option but to head for korzok.  When it was around three we got first sight of the view point by the lake. And Ratan Da kept telling that we had to cover only few kilometers. I know he told that only to keep our spirit. All day long colour of the lake kept changing but we were not in a position to enjoy that. When light was fading out we saw a man coming towards us with four mules and he stopped by us telling something in local language which we could not understand. At last what we understood from signs and very broken hindi that he was sent by Pradip Da and this mules are for us to ride on. He bring with him few packets of fruit juice and biscuits which we gulped in. But two mules among four denied to take us and on the way Ratan Da and Niladri decided to walk the distance. I with Rupa di asked them to take our mules but they were firm on their decision. So we rode the mule and reached korzok when there was no light in the horizon. Pradip Da again went with a jeep to pick them up and they joined us within an hour. Civilisation atlast and everybody from the shop and nearby homestay came to see us and listened to our experience. They were all surprised by the stamina of Rupa Di. That day we took a hefty dinner and slept under a thick blanket. We went back to Pang next day and proceeded towards Manali, asked every mule man we met on the road to inform Santosh if they see him.
We got the news of Santosh five days after we last saw him, he came back to Pang, since we did not met him the story of his remains unknown. We sent a small pickup van to get back our belongings.
Wish to meet Santosh some day and hear his story.

Keep walking.

This is only an attempt to narrate my experience and my limited knowledge of the language may be sometimes  boring to read by the reader of this blog. Thank you.

NANDIKUND & GHIAVINAYAK PASS

Madamaheshwar the one among five Kedars is one of the most enchanting among all Kedar's. I think there will be few to disagree with me.Once it was only popular among trekkers but now pilgrims from different states pour in as the trek distance is shortened considerably. Now one can go by bus or four wheel vehicle till Ransi village. Bridges are all reconstructed, trek route is well paved with stones and even pony is now available.Touch of civilisation can be felt everywhere.
I with my two friend this year (Oct 2014) decided to go beyond Madamaheshwar to Nandikund and descend in Kalpeshwar region. I last visited Madamaheshwar seven years back, and still I enjoyed the trek to Madamaheshwar as I did last time.
Since, this trek up to Madamaheshwar is very popular now and it is hard to find any trekker or mountain lover who had not came to this place. I hope reader's had already read my travelogue to Madamaheshwar. So, it will be better to start from Madamaheshwar.

Madamaheswar Valley as seen from above.

On a cold morning we three with two porters and a guide started from Madamaheswar for our next camp at Kachni Dhar. The way winded upward towards the jungle which can be seen in the backside of the holy shrine. It was not a steep climb and, sun yet to rise so we felt the cold in the jungle. One can see the temple looking down from the way. Gradually the gradient of the path increased and soon we found our self stopping frequently. Way within the jungle was not long and after that the path was on the slope of lush fawn colour grass with huge boulders stuck as if it would fall with a slightest of touch. A huge rock had created a overhang and there is a temple bright flag of which declares its presence. It is the temple of Khetrapal the guardian of the place. We stopped for a while and again started to walk slowly. Soon we came to a hump like formation, here we saw some broken parts of an aircraft which crashed here long time back. This place is probably Nandabarari Khark, I forgot to ask guide but who cares. There is a small camping ground with lush green patch on it but we didn't noticed any water source. From here the path enters into a boulder zone and easily one can loose the path. Kachni Dhar is not far from here but it was quite a steep climb. A shark tooth like rocks marks the gateway of Kachni Dhar. From Kachni Dhar the distant Pandavsera region can be seen. After crossing the Dhar it is a steep descent but there is way diagonally crossing the grassy slope, and it is easier to walk diagonally, although the the way is very narrow. Camping ground is little bit more than half an hour walk from here. A stone laid place which works as temporary shelter for shepherds. Among the rocks we found some place for our tent and the stone layout served as our kitchen. On the south there is deep gorge through which Madamaheswar Ganga is flowing, it cannot be seen though. We came from west and our destination awaits roughly on the eastern side. On the northern side there is a wall of a mountain and we are on the shoulder of it. We got clear sky all through out the day, but as noon was giving way to the evening clouds covered the whole place. Since this place is approximately at a height of 14500ft and the weather was on the cooler side we got snowfall in the formation of pentagonal cubes and it continued for more than an hour. Clear sky made the night very cold and surely it went below freezing point.
             We hit the trail at about 8 o'clock and today the trail gradually descended upto Pandavsera with lots of ups and downs in between. The most tricky part in this trail is descending beside Dwari Gad and crossing it. The gradient of descent is almost 80 degree. Since it was almost winter water in the stream was on the lesser side. We crossed it jumping over the rocks, in monsoon this stream gets quite violent. En-route we saw a cave within the jagged rocks known as Pandav Gufa. 

Pandavsera

Just before the meadow of Pandavsera we crossed a dried up river bed strewn with rocks and then climbed a small ridge and set foot on the meadow. It is a huge ground with Madamaheswar Ganga flowing down the right side and in front there is climb of Nandikund. We camped beside a huge rock with makeshift shelter beneath. Two or three people can sleep easily underneath the overhang of this rock.
Nandikund is our destination today, we rose early and started after little breakfast. Frozen ground crackled under our feet and those who trek surely likes this sound I think. At the end of the meadow we crossed a stream with ankle deep water at some place. I know the depth because my feet slipped on a var-glass and I fall in the water. After crossing the stream our climb started. Trail ran through the boulders and suddenly we stumbled on place which left us spellbound. Brahmakamal everywhere a rare sight it was. Air was filled with light misty scent. Looking backward Panpatia region can be seen from here. It took nearly three hours from Pandavsera to reach Nandikund. Really the view of the kund took away all our tiredness. The reflection of clear sky on the water made it light emerald colour. On its side Pandavsera range with snow cap made it more beautiful. Few weapons are there beside the lake which was said to be used by Pandavas.
Initially our plan was to camp beside the Kund but weather was not acting properly, so we decided to cross Ghiavinayak Pass and camp at Burma Bugyal.

From the left side of the Kund trail went up towards the pass. Since we are know above 15000 ft above sea level climbing up a little gradient is tough. After negotiating the boulder zone for about one and a half hour we came to the pass. And the view from the pass is breathtaking. Nandadevi, Trishul, and many more renowned peaks can be seen from here. 

Getting down from the pass is really very tough and loads on our back made it tougher. After a tiresome day we reached Barma Bugyal at around 3 o'clock. 

Bansinarayan mandir was our next camp. On the way we again had to cross a high ridge known as Khand Duwari. And we also got sighting of a group of Thar.

Himalayan Thar 

Green undulating meadows made the trek more enjoyable here. Spending lots of time en-route we enjoyed the beauty and reached beside the mandir when the sun was about to set. Sitting beside the mandir with a hot glass of tea we enjoyed the setting sun on Nandadevi. Our trek almost came to an end as next day we reached Devgram a beautiful village from where most people visits Kalpeswar.

BansiNarayan Mandir

** I would request readers to notify if their are any mistake. I would be happy to give information's if needed. 

Mayali Pass:Different way to Kedar

We two with lust to explore Garhwal more, decided to choose a route which should be more adventurous than our previous trek's and we decided to go for Mayali Pass a 18,000 feet high pass which leads to Kedarnath. Our first choice was the month of October for it's beautiful clear sky. Some experienced trekker warned us of snowfall but we decided to give it a try.
For this trek we did not contacted any guide in advance and took only little dry foods, masala etc with us so that we can travel light. But travelling light was an illusion because we carried utensils, stove a four men tent right from Kolkata, so that we face no problem acquiring those things.
Beats of drums (dhol) faded away as our train left the Howrah station on scheduled time on the day of Mahasashti. Reached Haridwar on October 3 at evening and came to know that their is no direct bus service from Haridwar to Ghuttu. Bus goes till Ghansali, and we have to change bus there.

Ghuttu

On 4th October after changing bus at Ghansali reached Ghuttu at 3.30pm. Started from Haridwar at 6.00am. Ghuttu- a small village, with few eateries and less than few staying option. At-last a generous grocer gave his room to us for the night and to further astonishment without any demand. Village is on the both banks of Bhilangana river. Got a guide, and took ration for the next seven days trek also mattitel  (Kerosene). Guide told us to get ready within 8.00 am next day i.e 5th October.
5th October we started for Reeh at 1.00pm, surprised seeing the time. Our only porter appeared in front of us at 12.30pm. Way to Reeh is not steep may be people of Reeh will see vehicles coming to there village within a year. Road work is going on. We got light drizzle on the last few kilometre stretch. Stayed at GMVN dormitory for the night.
Clear morning welcomed us on the way of Gangi- 10kms from Reeh. First 5kms is a bit steep climb and we reached Gangi at 2.30pm. But our porter don't know why reached at 5.30pm.We had to wait this long hours for a cup of hot tea. It started raining again in evening.Like sky our mood also got overcast. It was quite cold outside the bunglow of GMVN and we went to sleep at 8.00pm.
Gangi to Kharsoli 16kms (7/10/2011).Started after having breakfast of roti and karela ki sabji (what a starter for the day). Oh! it was a long walk, not with much ups and downs but at some point it seemed unending. After reching the camping ground of Kharsoli we got little enough time before it started raining quite heavily.RAIN oh it's not leaving us.

Sunset at Thalaysagar

Kharsoli to Chowki 12kms may be 10. But we gained reasonable altitude. 2kms before chowki we crossed bhilangana.After little while of reaching chowki snow started to fall. At late evening we experienced the magic of light on Thalaysagar.

Masar Tal

Masar Top

9/10/2011- Chowki to Masartal 6.5kms. Masartal camping ground is just half an hour walk before Masartal. Todays trek is less in kilometres but we have to get in high altitude. Patches of snows were there on the camping ground. It quickly get below zero degree as sun started to set. 10/10/2011 D-Day We started early for Mayali Pass. In the shivering cold our trek started.. at first we stopped at Masartal a beautiful lake on high mountains. Way to Masar top is on the left side of the lake and it is quite strenuous. After spending some time on the top  we started to get down to the other side. There is no path all we have to do is traverse through a bolder zone to find a suitable place to cross the Mayali glacier.

Mayali Glacier

It was a long winding way over fresh ankle deep snow to Mayali Top 18,000 ft. Reached on the top like a panting dog and spend half an hour on top. Started to get down to Basuki tal and it's knee breaking slope over boulders. Reached Basuki camping ground at 3pm dead tired.

Basuki Tal.

11/10/2011 today is our last day of trek because we decided to go down directly to Gourikund and it is almost 24kms.
Trek for this year comes to end, and now only memories for the coming days.
Our schedule was a bit hectic, if anyone wants to do this trek then keep a days rest at masartal. And Kedarnath always is a nice place to stay.

Panch Kedar.

I would like to present our trip report of Panchakedar, though we had completed it long ago i.e. in 2007 - it is "better late than never."
 Also it will not be irrelevant to write something about Panchkedar here, there are lots of people who are aware of this story/myths but still there may be some who don't. Those who knows are welcome to make me correct if I go wrong.
MYTH
After the battle of Kurukshetra, panchpandav full with sin of killing relatives wanted to get rid of it. Lord Krishna ask them to do "Tapasya" of Shiva. But Shiva got scared of those heavy burden of sin, hide from them in disguise. While in disguise of a buffalo he was identified by Bhim, and when Bhim almost got hold of him- he entered into 'Patal' / 'Earth'. Different portions of Shiva came out from different places after that. It is said that there are Pancha Kedar depicting five portions of Shiva's body in the form of buffalo but some says there are six.
Kedarnath- Back side ( It looks like back of Buffalo when viewed from entrance side of mandir).Kedarnath is also a Jyotirlinga. Pandava's made this temple later Adi Sankaracharya found it. And Rani Ahalyabai re constructed the temple. Samadhi of Adi Sankaracharya is in Kedarnath.
Pashupatinath- Located in Nepal . Front side.
Madamaheswar- Garhwal. Naval.
Tunganath- Garhwal. Arms
Rudranath- Garhwal. Face.
Kalpeshwar- Garhwal. The great hair locks.
This temples were mostly discovered by Adi Sankaracharya.
Our Trip
Me and my friend Partha decided to do some pilgrimage, and best way to do it in form of trekking was Panchkedar. We did not planned anything prior to the trip just bought ticket of 23rd October 2007 only planned 15 days from Kolkata to Kolkata.Landed in Haridwar from Upasana express and spent that evening sitting on different ghats of ganges also helped our self with a big glass full of lassi.

Beside Rudranath Temple.

Early morning on the next day got a Sumo in shared basis up to Gopeshwar. Changing jeeps twice we ultimately reached Mandal and decided quickly to go for Anusuya Devi Temple which is 3.5kms from Mandal. Got a person who agreed to show us the way to Rudranath and he informed that Rudranathji was already closed for the winter. Still we wanted to go there, and thus took some basic food like rice , dal, salt, haldi etc because we have to cook our food for one night. Utensils- the man said it will be available at any hut. OK lets go then. The man said "ruko, thoda kachi lana hai- main yun gaya aur aya". We were carrying our own sack he will carry ration which we purchased there. Our trek started late and reached Anusuya temple at 4.30pm. On the way we met with a shepherd Surinder Singh Bisht who was returning from his home to his lonely hut 1.5km after temple. He asked us to stay for the night with him, we instantly accepted his invitation. When we reached his hut it was totally dark and we had to cross a dense jungle. Our guide was already drunken and we had to find our own way. It was the barking of Surinderji's dog Dabbu which helped us to find the way. It was cold outside and we quickly took shelter in the hut. Dinner was simple with dal, roti, and lots of makkhan. Early morning we drank glassful of warm buffalo milk and some biscuits and started our trek. We decided to came back the same way and kept some of our garments in the hut. It was a long walk, and after Nawla Pass we encountered snow just above ankle deep.

Dawn from Nawla Pass.

Reached in front of closed door of Rudranath at evening tried to peek inside but it was dark. Took refuge in a open room our guide managed some utensils -don't know from where there was some fire wood in the room. Dinner was made half boiled Kichdi without salt and any masala because our great guide didn't picked it from shop. And he was intoxicated so it worth little blaming him at that state.At night we heard loud call of "Barasinga" a deer with big horns, and it was scaring.Next morning we started early and experienced the sunrise from Nawla Pass. We sat down there for about half an hour then started again. At about twelve noon we reached the shepherd hut and drank warm milk with some biscuits. Within a hour from there we reached Anusuya temple and decided to stay there at Tewari Lodge. Got dinner of rice,dal & sabji and slept on bed quite soundly.Anusuya to Mandal is a nice walk within jungle, though we missed the must see i.e Atri Cave.
 At Mandal we met a nice person Bhagat Singh Bisht he has a hotel at bus stand there (forgot the name), he gave us a room to fresh up and have lunch. He stopped a bus for us which is going to Chopta- and soon we were on the beautiful road of Chopta. This is Bhuk- Hartal road.

Tunganath.
Reaching Chopta we kept one of our sack with sleeping bags and some garments with Mangal Singh and headed straight to Tunganath. Since, we have no hurry walked slowly and enjoyed majestic view of Himalayas in the light of dusk. It was cold and we get into Ganesh Hotel. just beside the steps of Tunganath Temple.On the way we met a very old man probably an octogenarian slowly going down the steep slopes. His name if I remembered correctly was Maheshananda Maithani pujari of temple. He told us that he had met with Umaprasad Mukherjee the great bengali traveller & writer when Mr. Mukherjee used to stay there- he also shows us the house in which the great nature lover stayed. Next morning went for Chandrashila and it was bone chilling cold. Experienced sunrise on snow capped mountains. Came down to temple for puja and after puja started for chopta. Lunch in hotel of Mangal Singh and then got a jeep to Ukhimath.

Madamaheswar
 Jeep left us in Ukhimath market and in front of us there ,standing the last bus for Uniyana as if waiting for us. Reached Uniyana a small village, it was so dark that we could not see each other. Got a tea stall and asked for staying option. The man had few rooms under his shop. Good rooms with bed and thick blankets.

Buda Madamaheshwar.

Next morning after tea and little breakfast started for Madamaheswar at 7 am. Reached Bantoli very early. Took some rest in a tea shop, the owner served us warm milk, we both are very fond of milk, and said we had walked quite fast and we can reach Madameheswar by evening. Route is not tough with little ups and downs. We reached Madamaheswar at 5pm tired and exhausted. There was no tourist at that time so got a room in a hotel very cheap. To me this Madamaheswar route is most beautiful among Kedars. I loved the calmness of the place very much. Buda Madamaheshwar is 1.5km up from Madamaheshwar temple and from here one can experience huge Chaukhamba.

Way to Madamaheswar.

After puja had a breakfast of halwa with lots of ghee and started for Uniyana. Reached Uniyana at 4.30pm.

Kedarnath
Reached Gourikund quite late in afternoon after changing bus at Ukhimath. After those beautiful journey Kedarnath feels really noisy and little bit dirty.But the temple is big and automatically our head bowed in front of Lord Shiva. Stayed one night in Bharat Sevasram Sangha. As we were late there most shops were already closed for the long winter.
I wish to visit these places again someday and pray to almighty that this places remains free from harmful urban civilization.
SATYAM  SHIVAM  SUNDARAM

KUANRI PASS

Kuanri Pass         October- 2009


It was October, the month of festivals in Kolkata. Just after Durga Puja our team of two headed towards Howrah, without a confirmed ticket of Upasana Express. There was little hope of getting seats in overcrowded train. But things gone alright- our tickets got confirmed at last moment and we got a side upper and lower. Next day we reached Haridwar and took a room in dharamshala near station so that we can catch the early bus.
        Our bus started at 5.30am, and destination is Nandaprayag, from where we have to change for Ghat. I must tell you people that we have chosen this route because of our guide Harish Singh Bisht. This man accompanied us to Roopkund and very good guy. When I talked with him over phone he said that "agar aap do admi aoge to hum akele apke sath jayenge, aur bartan , stove ka chinta mat karo hum gharse le ayenge". This way he saved our lot. He stays in Gwaldam- and we only have to pay his conveyance for coming to ghat.
We reached Ghat at about 2.30pm and at the bus stand which is very small my friend Partha located Harish. He had already arranged a room for us, so we took no time in freshening up. Evening was spent in doing some marketing for next couple of days.
Day 1

After breakfast at 7.30 with aloo parantha & chai we waited for long 3hours for jeep to Ramni. At last we get one and started for Ramni, but road is till lower Ramni and we have to trek for 3-4 kms to reach Upper Ramni. At 3 pm our first day camp was set up at just above the village of Ramni. Experienced the colour of sunset on shoulder of Trisul. From here distant view of villages are beautiful.
Day 2
Started early at 7.30 for Jhenji and it is long walk. Ups and downs though not much but it is long. Just a km obove our camping ground there is a beautiful bugyal 'Goni' one can see a portion of massive Choukhambha from here. Reached Jhenji at about 2 pm and stayed in local masterji's house.
Day 3
Destination Sartoli. Another long walk. Sartoli is a small bugyal but it is somewhere different from others. On one side of it path has gone down towards small river and beyond it the ridge which one has to cross for Kuanri. This ridge blocks the view. In Sartoli there are two shepherd hut which remains open and we opted to stay in one of it.
Day 4
From Sartoli we came down to a river bank and a small bridge was there but now only few pieces of logs shows it was there. We crossed it, not that dangerous as water was very less that time.Crossing the river we climbed another 300 ft and reached Dakwani. Today we will stay here in a cave so that we can start early next morning to see the sunrise from pass.
Day 5

Oh, it was really cold as we started early. Slowly we climbed towards the pass as morning light started to show up. As we reached the pass the view mesmerized us. We remained spellbound for few minutes and enjoyed the 180 degree view of Garwal  Himalaya. Neelkanth, Choukhamba, Hati, Ghori, Mana are among them. After spending about half an hour we started to get down. We will get down from Tapovan side. On the way Khullara bugyal is a beautiful one. We stopped just 2km before Tapovan , outside a village to enjoy the calmness of mountains for the last day.
Our trek comes to end and waiting starts for another  one year.